Welcome back and to the early days of September! Hope everyone in Canada and the USA are enjoying the long weekend!
Warm weather throughout the week in Lousa. Temperature ranged from the mid-20's to low 30's throughout the week. Took advantage of the couple cloudy days to do some hiking in the mountains.
Mentioned last week that I had continued to challenge myself using the Google Map feature on my phone last Sunday in getting back to the bus station for the trip to Coimbra. My obstacle this time was having the wrong address for the bus station despite being in the station four days earlier. Such is life. My saving grace was the fact I gave myself extra time to walk to the station. Imagine my surprise when I arrived at my initial destination only to find it was the wrong address. Stepped into a cafe where the owner was able to help me with the right address and terrific directions - all shared in English. How very fortunate to find the right person at the right time.
Made the bus station with half an hour to spare. Was soaking in perspiration from the heat, anxiety and quicker pace to ensure I was on time. Smooth ride to Coimbra. Scenic ride from Coimbra to Lousa. Had to walk about ten minutes from the bus station to the train station to buy my ticket to Lousa.
I've been very remiss in failing to share how kind, generous and helpful the Portuguese people have been throughout my journey so far. I've been equally blessed most people spoke sufficient English to guide me where I needed to go. In those few instances where language was an obstacle; age old process of using hand signals made the day. There were a few instances when I was having a meal where the menu was Portuguese only. Decided to just point to something in the fish section of the menu and wait to see what I ordered.
Spent the entire week in Lousa. My original plan was to spend four days and move on. Plan changed after just one day. Fell in the love with the place. Hotel facilities and staff were so accommodating and hospitable. They offered me a local liqueur as a welcoming gesture on my arrival. I decided I would have a daily shot which they gladly and warmly invited me to do. Had a great breakfast which could be eaten on a terrace looking out on the mountains. Wonderful saltwater pool. Was able to get some jogging in. Simply a fabulous place to park myself for a week and enjoy the beauty and pace.
I've had a number of memorable moments during this trip. One specific moment came after I had finished a meal at the Tribano Restaurant in Foz. I was just finishing my meal and declined the offer to have dessert. The waitress looked at me with a smile and said, 'Well, I suggest that you then just sit here and enjoy the space'. Such simple and powerful words to help guide me in my future adventures. Just enjoy the space!
Happy Guy Photos
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| At the hotel - saltwater pool! |
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Hotel - Hiked in the hills you
see in the background |
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Church - start of first hike to the
schist village of Taslasnal |
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| Lousa Castle |
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Obligatory white cross in a remote
location on a hill |
The Hikes
I went hiking in the mountains twice during the week. There were a series of well documented and signed trails you can take to explore the natural beauty in this region. I chose circular trails so I could see something new throughout the trail. Each hike lasted about four hours in duration. The 2nd hike had the most impact on my body. The steady climb and descent gave me a new appreciation for what happens in my hips. Was fortuitous to have a massage scheduled for the evening following the 2nd hike.
Always take minute on these hikes to be grateful and appreciative for being able to move about unrestricted. Most of what I have experienced so far in this trip, or most of any other trips, would likely to be so very challenging! Count my blessings every day!
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Hike 1 - Trailhead to Taslasnal Village
Lousa Castle |
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| Castle up close and personal |
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| Another beautiful church |
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| View from lower part of trail |
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| View from lower part of trail |
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| View from further up trail |
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| View from just below the village |
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Taslasnal Village - one of a number of ancient villages
that have been and/or are being rebuilt |
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Taslasnal Village - took about 90 minutes hiking uphill
Can drive there for those less interested in hiking |
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| Taslasnal Village |
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Taslasnal Village
Has a cafe and small artisan shops |
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| One last view - Hike 1 |
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| Hike 2 - Looking down towards Lousa |
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| Hike 2 - View from higher elevation |
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| Looking down - from even higher up |
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| View from the top of the hike |
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Had to hike 6 km uphill to get to
the trailhead for Hike 2 |
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Oh yeah, Hike uphill was at a 10%
grade for the entire 6 km. Then I
started the hike! |
The Food
My love affair with food continued unabated this past week. So many great places to eat; so many different options to choose from. Every waiter was patient and helpful whenever I had any questions. Really tough to have a bad meal.
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| Mystery fish - was yummy! |
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Every meal is a full meal deal with delicious home cooked
food and fresh salad |
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The best G&T on the trip to date! Yes - G&T is a food group
on its own! |
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Fantastic chicken burger - one of those times I pointed at
the menu and waited to see what I ordered! |
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| Sweet potato chips - amazing! |
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| More sweet potato chips - meal on following evening |
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| Shrimp stew in a bread bowl - So so very good! |
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| Clams for a starter |
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| Seafood fusili |
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| Green broth - best home cooked soup so far! |
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First non-fish dish - just selected the evening special
without asking what was being prepared. |
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| Perch |
Visiting Coimbra
Made a day trip, by express bus this time, to Coimbra (about 27 km from Lousa). Another beautiful Portuguese city! Oh yeah. Also built on hills so you get more exercise for your steps on the way up the hill. Focused my visit at and around the university which dates back to 1290. Saw a couple churches and a beautiful garden that was part of the university grounds. Being in the gardens was like being in an oasis in the middle of the desert!
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| View of Coimbra from University - Mondego River |
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| View in opposite direction |
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Nothing like being in a church
to round out a visit |
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King Diniz Statue - Founder of
Coimbra University in 1290 |
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| Roman Aqueduct - outside University Gardens |
When gelato isn't as easy to find
So I found this pastelaria in Lousa that I adopted as my own. Developed a daily routine of visiting the pastelaria for espresso and a sweet sometime around 4 or 5 in the afternoon. The women working at the cafe started to recognize my by week's end - kind of cool to start feeling like a regular. As you can see I increased the size of my coffee as the week progressed.
What's next
Off to Lisboa by bus on Saturday. Decided traveling more than 2 or 3 hours in a day is about my upper limit now. Going any further is too taxing :)! After all, I am certainly being reminded by my adventures that life is about the journey (enjoy the space!) and far less about the destination. Like I said earlier, I feel very blessed I fully mobile to enjoy the journey with minimal challenges (other than my navigational deficiencies). I have very mixed feelings about heading back into a big city. I have loved being in the smaller Portuguese villages and cities. Seemed like the quality of time was better; less doing and more being.
Have to share I have discovered through this trip my travel objectives have radically changed. I once was a museum and sight seeing kind of guy. While I still have an interest, I was happier just chilling on the beach, exploring villages, have cafe, enjoying the natural beauty and, of course, finding good meals, sweets and gelato. Less busy doing and more being in the moment. Getting out of my comfort zone on this trip has been one of the most important personal gifts I have experienced. Exercising less control and letting life unfold - what a concept! What an adventure!
Thanks again for dropping by to share my most excellent adventure with me. Hopefully I'll see ya next week!
